We are living in the 21st century. Imagine walking on paths and in buildings that were built in the 10th century. Architecture and history that is older than the United States of America!
Tristan and I toured Vyšehrad, a historic fort that (according to local legend) was the first settlement in Prague that grew into the city itself. Very few of the structures from the Medieval Ages remain. However, the area is saturated in history, from the Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV to the Hussite revolution (a very important precursor to the Reformation). It was even an Austrian army base under Hapsburg rule following the Thirty Years' War
Even if Vyšehrad wasn't so rich in history and didn't have meaningful sites, I would go just for the landscape and views. Whoever maintains the gardening and landscaping there deserves a raise. Tristan and I were very impressed!
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Tristan, taking in the view |
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A view of the Vltava River, which we had boated on the day before.
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The outer wall with a view of the towers of the Basilica of Saints Peter & Paul |
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A portion of the Basilica of Saints Peter & Paul |
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Another gorgeous view of the Vltava River and the fort's wall. |
Vyšehrad was not crowded; at all. There were tourists out due to the splendid weather, but most of the people there seemed to be locals. I believe that school had just gotten out for some, so there were little groups of children sitting on the lawns or playing together among the trees.
Tristan and I quietly perused the Basilica of Saints Peter & Paul, one of the main attractions of Vyšehrad. The morning mass was about to start, and the music of monks singing echoed through the basilica, giving me goose-bumps.
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Flying saucer, anyone? Guess they knew something we don't. |
There was even a sarcophagus, or stone coffin of sorts, that was in the Gothic cellar. It was from the 10th century! A casket older than my country? Isn't that hard to wrap your head around?
Antonín Dvořák, a world-renowned Czech composer, was buried in the Vyšehrad Cemetery. So are many other famous and influential Czech people, including the writer who (basically) invented the word 'robot.' Alphonse Mucha, my favorite Art-Nouveau artist, is also buried there; but I didn't learn that until I was writing this post, so I didn't pose with his grave even though I technically walked past it more than once without knowing. Bummer. At least I was there!
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Standing in front of Antonín Dvořák's headstone; I was very excited, but trying to act serious.
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Tristan was actually somber because he takes things like that very seriously. "This is a solemn occasion; ho, ho, ho." (Private joke)
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The entrance to the Vyšehrad Cemetery. "Pax Vobis:" Peace to you |
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Tristan, walking through the Vyšehrad Cemetery |
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This is a statue of Záboj and Slavoj, two brothers that led the rebellion on the German troops of Charlemagne. Some think they won the victory at the battle of 805.
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There are four statues in total like the one above, all made by the sculptor Josef Václav Myslbek. Originally the likenesses of four famous couples or duos were on the Palacký Bridge (which we visited more than once). The statues were moved to Vyšehrad in 1948 while the Palacký Bridge was under reconstruction from an American bombing that took place on Valentine's Day 1945.
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This is probably the most creative map I have ever seen. |
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O, autumn.... |
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Are these not the cutest blocks of buildings you have ever seen? |
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I can't believe that I took this picture |
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Another view, but from the opposite side of Vyšehrad |
Tristan and I spent the rest of the afternoon with two wonderful, sweet girls from South Africa, Mika and Maliska. They were veteran public transport users in Prague and quickly took us to a neighborhood where we selected an Italian restaurant to dine in.
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Tristan, bravely trying out mystery appetizers. |
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As always, someone was the most excited he had been all day at mealtime. |
If you have ever had one of those conversations with people where you lose track of time, end up talking longer than you anticipated, but you don't care because it was a very heart-to-heart, honest, sincere discussion with 'kindred spirits' ... then you might know what it felt like to hang out with Mika and Meliska. Since they had grown up in South Africa then moved to a different culture, we had a lot in common. One of the funniest moments was when Tristan was talking about our home and saying, "The power went out for so many hours-" and the girls became excited and laughed as they told us, "That sounds like home!"
Even though we didn't know if we could meet up again, we made plans as the metro train sped to take us to our parting intersection. Tristan and I were going to Austria with our host family the next day and had packing to do. Mika and Meliska, having already made the journey, gave us some advice. "When you cross the border, pay careful attention. You will see that, suddenly, the grass is greener. People have mowed their lawns. The sky becomes clear. And in the rays of sunshine, the birds start singing!"
Coincidentally, Wikipedia tells me that Czech people love to visit Vyšehrad to celebrate New Years' Eve. Is it not fitting, then, that this is my first post in 2020?
Happy New Year, loyal readers and friends. Here's to many more blog posts and world travels.
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